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JC's Delights, Inc.

Home of Gramma Hilda's Doggie Delights

Renninger's Market - Mt. Dora, Florida

Made from scratch and cut out by hand!

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Grooming Tips from
a Retired Pro


 

Grooming Tips: Combing, Brushing, Bathing, etc.

 

Janet was a professional dog groomer for nearly 20 years.  She has attended several trade shows and training seminars nationwide.  Her health has led to where she no longer can keep up the rigorous job with the quality she demands from herself.  Janet's favorite breeds to groom were Bichon Frises, Poodles, Wirefox Terriers, Airdales, and Shih-Tzus.  It's not that she doesn't like several other breeds, those were just her favorites to groom.  She excelled at hand-scissor finishing.  In fact, there were sevearl doggy clients of whom she strictly hand-scissored without ever touching them with the electric clippers.  She misses being with the dogs every day, and didn't want to see her talent go to waste.  After starting the company, JC's Delights, Inc., (and since she can no longer be working in the grooming room) she is happy to share her best tricks of the trade.


A note from Janet herself: "Greetings fellow grooming adventurers!  I certainly hope you find the following information to be helpful in your "between grooms" times.  In all the years I have been a groomer, there were a few things that I stressed to my customers more than others.  I am happy to share these few tricks of the trade with you now.  Enjoy!"

 

First Things First: Repetition is boring but helps you keep your sanity!


Choose a location in your house where it is easy for you to groom.  Use this same location EVERY time!  This creates a habit for your dog, and he/she will know when they are there, it is not play or snuggle time, it is grooming time.
 

For smaller dogs placing a non-skid mat atop a washer or dryer is good.  It is normally a good height for you to work on your pet.


Larger dogs do well in a setting where there are few distractions.  Your garage, basement, or laundry room may serve you well.  You can also attach a hook to the wall for hooking up ol' Fido so he/she cannot escape.


Avoid trying to do any type of grooming on your dog while they are on your lap. (Unless you just happen to have one of the rare ones that hold still no matter what!) Most dogs associate being on your lap as snuggle time.
 

 

 

Brushing and Combing: Most of us need a nap after such a task!

Brushing and/or combing are very important essentials to maintaining a healthy coat. 

Breeds with long, non-shedding hair such as Cocker Spaniels, Shih-Tzus, Lhasas, Yorkies, Schnauzers, Poodles, and Bichons just to name a few, require daily brushing to avoid matting (or tangles).  Matting is what brings groomers to the un-popular decision of having to shave your pet down to "nakedness" when you were hoping for a West Minster look on your breed.


Larger breeds with shedding hair and undercoats such as Huskies, Samoyeds, and Malamutes require daily brushing to control the shedding.


Shedding breeds should be brushed before, during, and after a bath.  Yes, even during their bath.  This can be done once the animal has been lathered up.  Before you begin the rinse cycle, using the proper comb you can remove a lot of undercoat and shedding hair without having it flying around uncontrolably through the air!  A great grooming trick I learned early on!


The best brushing techniques for long haired critters go like this: Always start at the back of the dog to get them used to the feel by the time you get to their head and face.  We will use a Bichon as our model.  Start with the long flowing tail.  Don't just brush here and there.  Gather the hair in your non-brushing, or holding hand starting at the base of the tail.  Using a slicker brush, gently begin to "pull" the hair out from your hand using consistant strokes.  If you hear a "scratching" sound as you brush, that means there are mats or snarls.  Gather the hair once again, and "pull" out the same hair from your hand using your slicker bruch until there is a smooth no scratch sound.  Then, run a comb through the tail hair to check one last time for tangles.  From there, keep repeating until all of the hair on the tail has been removed from your holding hand.  This technique is used not just on the tail, but also the legs, body, and ears of breed with curly and/or non-shedding long hair.


Shedding dogs require a different brushing technique and sometimes different tools.  A tool called a pet rake will help you keep that undercoat under control.  Because of the design of the tool, it goes below the surface coat hair and finds the undercoat.  It will remove the loose undercoat hair much easier than a brush.  Using the holding hand technique described above for long hair non-shedding breeds can be done to get to the undercoat, but it is time consuming and usually strenuous on both you and the dog.  Always brush and comb-out before the bath to loosen dirt and grime, while also removing the majority of loose hair.  Once in the tub and lathered up - use a good metal comb or your pet rake to continue the "de-shedding" process.  You need to be careful you don't over work the skin using the pet rake or comb while the animal is wet.  Their skin is much more exposed when wet and scratching the skin can happen if you are not careful.


A tool called a matt-splitter can be used to help separate the matts so that they may be brushed out with ease.  There are times however, even a matt splitter cannot do the job safely and your dog will have to be shaved down.  It is best to take your dog, regardless of the breed, to your professional groomer once a month if you can.  If not, 6 weeks is the max you should ever go if you have a dog which requires grooming.


 
 
 
 
Bathing & Blow Drying

Different dogs require different techniques of bathing and blow drying.  For example - a Lab pretty much loves the water, and will want to play, while a Maltese or Bichon might not be so water happy! 

To keep your water hating kid in the tub, and make life a little easier for you, you may want to install a quick "eye" bolt to the wall so you can hook a leash to it to keep Fido in the tub.

Talk softly to your dog and continually tell them what a good girl or boy they are being.  If they are totally freaked out at the beginning, it may take more than one bath time to get them to finally calm down - if ever.  Yes, I said if ever!  Some dogs just DO NOT like the water - and bath time can be very traumatic.  The more tense and loud you become, the worse it makes it for them.

Always start by getting the back end wet first and work your way to their heads.  Starting at the head of a new puppy or dog who hates water only makes it more difficult to gain control. 

Warm water running at a slower pace for starters, eased up on their back end helps let them get used to it.  Think of yourself...when someone comes at your face with something you're not expecting - you tend to get a little testy...I know I do!

Make certain the animal is throughly soaked to the skin before applying the shampoo.

Using a massage type scrub to lather up helps ease the tension.

Once a long haired breed is used to the procedure, move from a massage method to a soft bristle scrub brush once the shampoo is good and soapy.  This will help to brush any remaining loose hair out and away.

Short haired dogs need to be scrubbed too.  It is best to use your fingertips, and avoid a scrub brush as their skin is not as well hidden from their fur.

Always be careful to not get soap in their eyes - even tearless shampoos need to be avoided with the eyes if at all possible.  If soap does get in their eyes, rinse them immediatley with cool water and watch them closely after the bath for redness or any other sign of irritation that may need medical attention from your vet.

Do not let the water run directly into their ears.  Dogs with long floppy ears especially.  The moisture only grows "things" they don't need to be growing in their ears!  If excess wax can be found, if they rub their ears, or if there comes a foul odor, be sure to see your vet for treatment.

When you rinse a dog, by now they should be used to the water.  Start at the base of the neck and move up rinsing the head and ears first.  Continually slide your hand down their back removing all the soap.  The last thing to check is the back feet for squeaky clean fur - no soap.

Tomato Juice mixed with water has been known to remove skunk odor - but if it is severe enough, you may just have to deal with it until it passes!

Time to blow dry those fluff balls!  If you want your Poodles and Bichons to have that wonderfully fluffy look - they need to blow dried using a commercial grooming dryer and be brushed the entire time the air is blowing.  Not an easy task for the home job.  It really is best to leave the long haired and fluff balls to a professional for both bathing and drying.

Short haired dogs can be easily dried with a home blow dryer set on the cool setting.  Rub with a soft towel during the blow drying to soak up excess water and cut blow drying time down.

Shampoo selections make up quite a variety.  You'll need to know which is best for your dog.  If your dog needs a medicated shampoo, you will probably want to see your vet for the best option regarding your dog's skin problems.

Cream rinses can leave dogs oily if too much is used.

It is best to not bath your dog more than once every 2 weeks - unless differently instructed by your vet.

Flea shampoos and dips can be potent!  If you have a severe case, you will need to treat your house and yard at the same time your are bathing your dog.  Try an all natural flea shampoo before getting into harsh chemicals.  Be sure to follow all instructions.

Flea collars don't work!

Flea & Tick prevention products do work.  You will need to discuss your best options with your vet.

If you love that sweet smelling fragrance - be sure it is made for dogs!  Some of my favorites include Kennel #5, Four Paws, and Liz Claybone. 
 


 
 
Nail Trimming:

Trimming nails is no fun for neither of you!  Most dogs hate it, and most owners are leary of the task, and rightfully so.  If you are going to attempt nail trimming on your own accord, the best thing to have on hand is some "Quick Stop" for those awkward times you may get in to the quick and it starts to bleed.

White nails are obviously the easiest as you can see the quick. 

A general rule of thumb to keep in mind is to clip 1/4" in front of the quick. 

Often times on the under side of the nail, you will see a "notch" at the base of the point of the nail.  This "notch" is a good guideline - and you can usually - NOT ALWAYS - get by with clipping just in front of (towards the pointed end of the nail) the "notch". 

If you lack the least bit of confidence, don't worry about it - head to your groomer or vet and they will be glad to help you out.

Using a metal nail file gently on the tips after nail clipping helps round off any pointy edges.  Often times people would say to me, "I just tried to clip my dogs nails, and now they are sharper than when I started!"  This can happen as nail clippers are sharp and make a very clean cut on the nail.  Rounding off the sharp edges can really help alleviate accessive scratches. 


Take time to relax!