First Things First: Repetition is boring but helps you keep your sanity!
Choose
a location in your house where it is easy for you to groom. Use this same location EVERY time! This creates a
habit for your dog, and he/she will know when they are there, it is not play or snuggle time, it is grooming time.
For smaller
dogs placing a non-skid mat atop a washer or dryer is good. It is normally a good height for you to work on your pet.
Larger dogs
do well in a setting where there are few distractions. Your garage, basement, or laundry room may serve you well.
You can also attach a hook to the wall for hooking up ol' Fido so he/she cannot escape.
Avoid
trying to do any type of grooming on your dog while they are on your
lap. (Unless you just happen to have one of the rare ones that hold
still no matter what!) Most dogs associate being on your lap as snuggle
time.

Brushing and Combing:
Most of us need a nap after such a task!
Brushing and/or combing are very important essentials to maintaining a healthy coat.
Breeds with long, non-shedding hair such
as Cocker Spaniels, Shih-Tzus, Lhasas, Yorkies, Schnauzers, Poodles, and Bichons just to name a few, require daily
brushing to avoid matting (or tangles). Matting is what brings groomers to the un-popular decision of having to shave
your pet down to "nakedness" when you were hoping for a West Minster look on your breed.
Larger breeds with shedding hair and undercoats
such as Huskies, Samoyeds, and Malamutes require daily brushing to control the shedding.
Shedding
breeds should be brushed before, during, and after a bath. Yes, even
during their bath. This can be done once the animal has been lathered
up. Before you begin the rinse cycle, using the proper comb you can
remove a lot of undercoat and shedding hair without having it flying
around uncontrolably through the air! A great grooming trick I learned
early on!
The best brushing techniques for long haired critters go like this: Always start at the back of the dog
to get them used to the feel by the time you get to their head and face. We will use a Bichon as our model.
Start with the long flowing tail. Don't just brush here and there. Gather the hair in your non-brushing, or
holding hand starting at the base of the tail. Using a slicker brush, gently begin to "pull" the hair
out from your hand using consistant strokes. If you hear a "scratching" sound as you brush, that
means there are mats or snarls. Gather the hair once again, and "pull" out the same hair from your hand
using your slicker bruch until there is a smooth no scratch sound. Then, run a comb through the tail hair to check one
last time for tangles. From there, keep repeating until all of the hair on the tail has been removed from your
holding hand. This technique is used not just on the tail, but also the legs, body, and ears of breed with curly
and/or non-shedding long hair.
Shedding
dogs require a different brushing technique and sometimes different
tools. A tool called a pet rake will help you keep that undercoat
under control. Because of the design of the tool, it goes below the
surface coat hair and finds the undercoat. It will remove the loose
undercoat hair much easier than a brush. Using the holding hand
technique described above for long hair non-shedding breeds can be done
to get to the undercoat, but it is time consuming and usually strenuous
on both you and the dog. Always brush and comb-out before the bath to
loosen dirt and grime, while also removing the majority of loose hair.
Once in the tub and lathered up - use a good metal comb or your pet
rake to continue the "de-shedding" process. You need to be careful you
don't over work the skin using the pet rake or comb while the animal is
wet. Their skin is much more exposed when wet and scratching the skin
can happen if you are not careful.
A
tool called a matt-splitter can be used to help separate the matts so that they may be brushed out with ease. There
are times however, even a matt splitter cannot do the job safely and your dog will have to be shaved down. It is best
to take your dog, regardless of the breed, to your professional groomer once a month if you can. If not, 6 weeks is
the max you should ever go if you have a dog which requires grooming.
Bathing & Blow Drying
Different dogs require different techniques of bathing and blow drying. For example - a Lab pretty much loves
the water, and will want to play, while a Maltese or Bichon might not be so water happy!
To keep your water
hating kid in the tub, and make life a little easier for you, you may want to install a quick "eye" bolt to the
wall so you can hook a leash to it to keep Fido in the tub.
Talk softly to your dog and continually tell them what
a good girl or boy they are being. If they are totally freaked out at the beginning, it may take more than one bath
time to get them to finally calm down - if ever. Yes, I said if ever! Some dogs just DO NOT like the water - and
bath time can be very traumatic. The more tense and loud you become, the worse it makes it for them.
Always
start by getting the back end wet first and work your way to their heads. Starting at the head of a new puppy or dog
who hates water only makes it more difficult to gain control.
Warm
water running at a slower pace for starters, eased up on their back end
helps let them get used to it. Think of yourself...when someone comes
at your face with something you're not expecting - you tend to get a
little testy...I know I do!
Make certain the animal is throughly soaked
to the skin before applying the shampoo.
Using a massage type scrub to lather up helps ease the tension.
Once a long haired breed is used to the procedure, move from a massage method to a soft bristle scrub brush once the
shampoo is good and soapy. This will help to brush any remaining loose hair out and away.
Short haired dogs
need to be scrubbed too. It is best to use your fingertips, and avoid a scrub brush as their skin is not as well
hidden from their fur.
Always
be careful to not get soap in their eyes - even tearless shampoos need
to be avoided with the eyes if at all possible. If soap does get in
their eyes, rinse them immediatley with cool water and watch them
closely after the bath for redness or any other sign of irritation that
may need medical attention from your vet.
Do not let the water run directly into their ears. Dogs with long floppy ears especially.
The moisture only grows "things" they don't need to be growing in their ears! If excess wax can be
found, if they rub their ears, or if there comes a foul odor, be sure to see your vet for treatment.
When
you rinse a dog, by now they should be used to the water. Start at the base of the neck and move up rinsing the head
and ears first. Continually slide your hand down their back removing all the soap. The last thing
to check is the back feet for squeaky clean fur - no soap.
Tomato Juice mixed with water has been known to remove
skunk odor - but if it is severe enough, you may just have to deal with it until it passes!
Time
to blow dry those fluff balls! If you want your Poodles and Bichons to
have that wonderfully fluffy look - they need to blow dried using a
commercial grooming dryer and be brushed the entire time the air is
blowing. Not an easy task for the home job. It really is best to
leave the long haired and fluff balls to a professional for both
bathing and drying.
Short
haired dogs can be easily dried with a home blow dryer set on the cool setting. Rub with a soft towel during the
blow drying to soak up excess water and cut blow drying time down.
Shampoo selections make up quite a
variety. You'll need to know which is best for your dog. If your dog needs a medicated shampoo, you will
probably want to see your vet for the best option regarding your dog's skin problems.
Cream rinses can
leave dogs oily if too much is used.
It is best to not bath your dog more than once every 2 weeks - unless differently
instructed by your vet.
Flea shampoos and dips can be potent! If you have a severe case, you will
need to treat your house and yard at the same time your are bathing your dog. Try an all natural flea shampoo before
getting into harsh chemicals. Be sure to follow all instructions.
Flea collars don't work!
Flea
& Tick prevention products do work. You will need to discuss your best options with your vet.
If you love that sweet smelling fragrance - be sure it is made for dogs! Some of my favorites include Kennel #5, Four
Paws, and Liz Claybone.